.WAFL (l `_akntry(&嘵_;n_akNurl http://www.slowfood.com/eng/sf_sloweb/sf_arch_sloweek.lasso?-database=sf_sloweb&-layout=tutti&-response=sf_sloweb_dettaglio.lasso&-recordID=34990&-searchmime text/htmlhvrsdata Slowfood.com
     

Join Slow Food
All About Slow Food
The Movement
Slow Food Editore
Press Office
Slow Food Foundation
  Ark of Taste
  Presidia
  Awards
Slow Food Events
Taste Education
University and
Agenzia di Pollenzo
Our Pick
Sloweb
Wine
Membership - Store
   
  Sloweb:  who's who

Join Slow Food
 
  Sloweb
 
 
United Kingdom - 09/12/2003

AT RISK - Oh Mister Perryman! PART ONE

Kate Hawkings

Tom Oliver is a man with a passion for perry. He is seriously smitten. To me, there is nothing more beautiful than the sight of sunlight catching on pear juice as it runs out of the press, he says. We arrived at his farm in the heart of the Herefordshire countryside on a gloriously sunny September day just in time to see the first pressing of the day, and it was hard to disagree.

Tom is one of a small but growing band of devotees who are reviving this most traditional of English drinks and his enthusiasm is catching. He recently won the Flavours of Herefordshire Producer of the Year trophy, an award given to the most outstanding producer of any local food or drink. This is no mean feat considering he was up against stiff competition.

I was really thrilled to get that recognition, Tom tells me, especially as there are so many other people around here who are doing similar things. Farmers are having to diversify to make ends meet and many of them are doing so by turning back to tradition and making some top-quality produce.

He has been making perry for more than 20 years. I used to make it with various friends, just for our own consumption, he says. Im passionate about the whole process; I love the orchards, the treesthey have always been part of my lifeand think good perry is the most fantastic drink.

In 1999 Tom decided to go into commercial production and, though the business is still in its infancy, it is starting to flourish.

Perry is to pears what cider is to apples. The earliest reference to an alcoholic drink made with pears was by Pliny, and the Romans are known to have brought a pear-based drink called castormoniale to these shores. Perry is a speciality of The Three Counties (Herefordshire, Worcestershire & Gloucestershire) and reached its heyday in the 17th century, when it was held in the same high esteem as the best French wines. Just as traditionally made cider bears little resemblance to the fizzy, industrially produced ciders most of us are used to, so real perry is a world away from Babycham, its most famous commercial relation.

Toms story is an interesting illustration of the changing shape of small-scale British agriculture. His is a classic example of a traditional mixed English farm. The concern has been in his family for 4 generations and hop cultivation used to be its mainstay. It also grew oats, barley and grass to support its small herd of beef cattle and a flock of sheep.

Hops are fundamental to the making of the quintessentially English bitter beers we should all be proud of but, ironically, as demand for real beer has grown in recent years, the market for hops grown in England imploded in the face of cheap imports from China, Eastern Europe, New Zealand and the USA. Similarly, it is apparently cheaper for commercial cider producers to import apple concentrate rather than using the fruit that is available on their doorsteps, so our centuries-old cider apple orchards are now under threat.

20 years ago the Olivers farm had 10 employees, but its long-term future was looking precarious. Tom left to work as a sound engineer and tour manager for musicians as diverse as Van Morrison, Elton John and The Proclaimers, a job which supplemented the coffers and also allowed him time off to return to work on the farm at busy times of the year. He still tours with The Proclaimers but is always back for harvest time.

Kate Hawkings is a cook and freelance journalist
 
 
postXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXcate L *2NMntry(t-ۺk ")0|\E*e#m-]url 9http://www.slowfood.com/graf_sito/graf_sloweb/sloweb.gifbsrlhttp://www.slowfood.com/eng/sf_sloweb/sf_arch_sloweek.lasso?-database=sf_sloweb&-layout=tutti&-response=sf_sloweb_dettaglio.lasso&-recordID=34990&-searchmime image/gifhvrsdataGIF89a;􆆆uuuBBB"""त333fffTTT}quɠͱuv18!(06;AJPY]hm֭ȍ?@s x| ,2SYlpSQfph`x|Ϸj;:c X Q ULF B I \sxY IJѬjiK#$: dcFD&+BHƿ攓;dWUK )0PTei݄C lkkBt!%aeBB77s}||sYW1\\\XZ@?\as`a2 :99+ 8=V[êQ34M'(ZY2++Q&'c!HM9h‹}0$#8 efs-0@Co]]մ`^߶s=>3 4b:<ر-zzz`[[ÀjFF[LLqPO+6||; B()]01:!"844!J11nHI{zD'(Pˆ׿v?@Bjed'&h,//'(O/0pq# eifUJNׅ$pprrJ98+if(_GFjw"ggsZZc')wVU~JJ}-0SA@iYW8-+:IZ/0xYXrnqHGÔwwDDUU33ff""!,;@HݡH#J(q! 4x@=H',@dG d8sT)%N :@ I0#R\Je\YǀP*jlhdG 2$`@I5ARݯR*x@9F:>5G*,ҕ(RQDT0̠ 4 AAt0<.K 냟q68$Z3T|뭒I$gU@#(TH2ZTbF" "QG?ˤ|Ȁhs=s< 2=@O U=\|H2(bAɢ>xx@sP6h@@<d?!>Nb*x=s: 9"~y$P 8p­riDvn@rs"u2'J  w !q )hTz qJ~jA _ݝi @8*P8VN 4 Ztñ^RC25ha ls^Y (rw$` R|)RA $ Wqugr$@0p!E`BCrDXA PYCũK_l6To;' 0أh@,Co!M݈ 38q Tq"G5G _o-ʇ<&C;P00ܖ>P =!=Ec9۽<cpӼ;>s:3]N;>^>>AZHAвO!8| t9֖ bz>ޯܜ! !  @~4 7]˛Pz'GHuI:(#A6" B 8DJ 0 $t" HpP ZZC @S nI@p )PD t>LCH=?` A2U3kw " X, a0P9"1 $?Y8L6+$BDzx/̄HG{A't xR 啡,EG "*(3(W*F>w TA5~/0K4X*0F0RpVYx+|ݝE $A o5!neI~ g|6%rQ/\$ O P-\!>N IH;Ad"y@?`5M &q 2V"Be`IVmAٮ2`a)ڃ/tQ@Z3 Ph y3T'zڞ p/vR`; b(qD Jyp6HD9-$EA{C/2nKy%2>%c8 RI @=!=w=A![CH)駼"(6oCK=$u 9̠7{79m˪(.Ƀ_NHu<\>DhA҃@01$^A:7[Zq<1a5T >K CcqU4P֋ç#VmJiR &I8X2E+$Ql+!6?brݼj3+::x4M+/AmhFy"*x|/WzHjb@FXw DB8<|*4MUxv3>NhJ'd  `p{(QvShMi!$W]n]n%7,yKvmjz0pJ R # HHс )MEjFly1*[Ui\u{R-[ < uay<ĉ│ jBǵ2vp}짱s.3 o~ H@ r]eE#52HD¾  ?|@ d`D2DwF Qfi4l텙ˑ.l*$  2x<%v3c@fbI m@0M ^0G:r9txO@&qו=JX dH "cr  .0wY`#y qAĨtI3a?~EPuS,J@ NUPOS*O>_kLAuL'@~ATP~=avJErt[g @0_P0s  N QP @ r1"xx-a7UO(~AnQ/ɝQ6 0Oe#e;:_Pp` aT!,Ff&+gQ+{&w$,'7i}p B-`C0- 2ѧa lpVj FeAnVY{CӶh*'40 QjN!0}?a WXUIt&Iɹ~ېC pB2fFFr31 @}X ƕ  q ` @WpFH?1Gsj7Xˣk\a!"&f%&,vE9'aP5F4bc\iI.ǼZ_'"`!$E9C[؀ی2#ntry(;juo44V\g^ëk.aurl Fhttp://www.slowfood.com/graf_sito/graf_sloweb/icona_lumacapiccola.gifbsrlhttp://www.slowfood.com/eng/sf_sloweb/sf_arch_sloweek.lasso?-database=sf_sloweb&-layout=tutti&-response=sf_sloweb_dettaglio.lasso&-recordID=34990&-searchmime image/gifhvrsdataGIF89a#ΓΚЦ!,#@ DY&!34gz dbp/pE !80cQЛ֖!RP1!2Rq*T=aVv=a' o| "&H>?n'I(x8K$# G#G$ <'#l,_F# SI'#'}n"5 ^el`{$8ID@1z $K'8p`IpUѸHp3#rA!4Z v|QChAAu";postV\XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXcate ;V\ռm2ntry( 4{--\aEc&gmkGurl 7http://www.slowfood.com/eng/adimages/become_member.gifbsrlhttp://www.slowfood.com/eng/sf_sloweb/sf_arch_sloweek.lasso?-database=sf_sloweb&-layout=tutti&-response=sf_sloweb_dettaglio.lasso&-recordID=34990&-searchmime image/gifhvrsdataGIF89ax<1堠ʤ側==< pmfMML~)))ʵ!ӫV˄j8׈zEw! NETSCAPE2.0!,x<` dihlp,tx|ԝpH 仧r4t 8Rϑ*0 G0 <\Tnt':|~ ; :  a9 v 9~yOS  < s 98:}ZzP8=? ; WM8;@< R‘=9}w* B75!8DlM.s>ĭ9k1[YvD:_w!/`E*GA%T xT zg1oGTGuM`5#? 0zj!c~xW8qc#,rQ S9_Af&)ɥrxH{g,;epCd7isn,}q.Ic6hC>b(r[IA=ptҙ*M@sH `#йC3"@4y% 4PSW˞5ǝ_$_"e>ˮ;0 :' a$@(땫C6, P>T%J=@@>4%O lM]=!.3uDw97:%QK%vwߢnjtBxVTE,%>Iw_ag+o_Αko/oKpYA@ ( m1@| `_m`lG;@0 1~ҴbvV҈"}@PcXW!ȒP]-5J3"74"VN1'J.>#ZG"=5+NJ$[7rҋÀ~J+8J/L-Ł a!H:uW;=b,*iAӈ?G\P܃r\x8FKbzpAWEb 2:J$6g.Ƃ|,<.?*zs_L D! ,r2IDRV!q 1X]tmUϻCþ[bdap km ze~[a6tb6K ^aPca9 $>)P4=Dp$e0 kЉqO9ԃ>y3LP & `S" 0aEFR H0xd8sЊߦ@ J0QB x|b2@H0cK'pXc=EUي*R&JFi9y1.op1AX_YhYpcQ; Nvi3pcr׳DXRXGkE7ytO$v+aS,ܩ X׈8lnST}'06 { tjCJ@<+Q0X^ ^l8t\-X b84 3\!H(hIW9ſǕYP,)8ewYʻ]6v R+fS*aDc`!d y7Ec a4 sLhQXG D|N~h[,;Hqixʩ|ͫ4.AUhU(@Z ( ^biXxKC:cl6Q( f'tQڵɁ+JP5A콉_qG1n)Pg ,VbHWnzNu,C6SڣD#<؊"}CGe ނڹkrYY }cwZ=3Ƕ Ndfu9GDzZ}<A#*Ŭm`I! ,r2IRV!5BY*z%t]Fn0/G)I.)FPĿ f-D-<{$OuNem +xOqf_zusr4`k\|848g}yOXw[J][݅78<(;4By}#_[*Q2vy_I|gIL%'޶ lճ>`'-3@ -Chmxa CI(S\( sE ,&ϕ^`XA 2 w tSXM~ÕQ[y9KgZc"naPC PB+p-si< a#h: {B!9 5HҽAOQ]EkVQjq@ce+@Ce ) |WN%Y)>yCM \V 0C x:UHQ<C«1R6M{։e`~5WE lۂ@ǜ(q@e3@_ =A D8Xz]yzs5Zz9BV`]j˭e=ۋ#)IeE5Doa:qu2['4g%2((G]0x`Ֆm^g D Ei1 @]x(*dډtwņEe|$tv= h|"ܵ IfKbf&bŊ'AD)#&l4OB`0 ,cahL(JJbN8uuLj~&X.tu`W-hUi h )HW 3BzT22cYQJQ%O9HvUcXa̽I5Xܭ$1_EaJ*a>[bh y N?0D$dje4~R <hi BlP\Ǎȴ% Y|(AV7si"0wx34p}lnF+єLT{&Z1/⋱LM_x!t! , ^2Ie9GPBͭ!]% HPTbj IQ9 $1 sP(.@xP~$QG3p<1W@0Ppm5FYpeeg9CEGcsN>* qtMof^B *[A}F YmC zFCW [v9-Fz Ѧ:䲀յ)R:8[ axwO 0`Iql2.ٻOV X EĠ6:4$y(8S#JH*]PJJX0ll4Y%&eRciХ]zw!$g{dcU Еl~` -(c[}ȇ3@->9w,W̔ (D<4ցcM̤sժԁ40C!<D@':t3!C&`4JQ1*pe+dL掔 `?EŐLO9U0+::4@ ~*ق;`iAl~}yPxw{zkGbTQyg(zIraC>D$A4:[8rd;A*3](hR؁:dM$y:Lf53R 4(Ds\ :Ż:a6u "`tHz/T&R,qZ29N!b0cI8sЊO1daB ?a^)ܓL̩HST+L:CȞ%>ᅾʑQ!*&w״{Wpɉ11ӕ)I˽3küC9[.o>+759A4.X\aBĢt@cE?B/?4DŽeB3B'T4"#~$U}&_"2t(pOJaHQ, E|P5V6-@2>Xr$)a&3GA?Bw&Z!ߑ<ՙ#AgCFT5Z:!78V~JM7f?JKb'ZDVp&f :vG%kQK&yΉjNbh^8<5:dMx"z^>F)ޡ\J Jzxj8Mx@?W:sZQѝő{3<L)'!AXOKMTwphstuEEpJ!fH_2&u m$Sia"XGєaQ8ʭR,.# qm2C;XAdYѻuLͭC\m *vdX`iI@ Y/ p) p00& @AjiĢg1 $0@%Ŀ4`)'(㮾p讙@ $j3[Zı%:*$<ƎkR, ܢ,g Pr|;Ƕ(kڶP/Ŀ,h;ߌ)@zP\& 4p@@l@Nn'yp`gu .$SͿ; m / =:() *B ۴"Ċ@ [/CƮ~,0;q9%.@2Đ"}v}{8 ,ۼ5g[i"kRK.o-k2p$49N)͒:kmOz'{:};;*`P+.B:x {^8 <͕M}[iiwmOwH :|?GNcgj<,bl'(sMA)423vᾀtS/Iv$S/kujْkU^`0Y'FG=K$CCU42FŠ&d8*DϒuB`8ޱpl*MPKe۔ÕoF=G&nx8I O89ڑ*3xtި( LX`, :Z'S.gteųzمL! BLWl#0= 4xD8 Ϳw$4Jy0 dRMT8 L uC Y^ :, XGvw6 hlvue֑-ChM, Q@~RI̞4VH52E ahRLEXL ETu8Kڑ36HeZAP66]:& Ds 1 d}EFCaH2&eRKScCp!ɢy1_w|XHX 46p)#?%|bJd c j xI_z>rrEķ~fVa=Y)Bi$hDΧwATP:e&hҍ5TiH**tm0n+C'^gYemza`R kԱD_͂7k*a }QL#g`$#(5V( bN.; 3ܬ2<3k|a8hbk)EL74W" @3Xå6< 4pFdjFzMc1.iJx ћ:o#(pՀr xP93pp8dM 2^0d,qA @@ ,Xϡ p wHt }*!wA ,Lxp`_B >).jHֿTF}8)A(ޢv>MwwsR4"62Drt2Q0o[S;0  $C G%,gb@H-PC PѨC`a6HqL~ xFd`Ca7S)ѠDşKA0Rews!X#4"P&:G\R|a1Pil,`:liM82 ,$pa3HYˠ 1 %%'dnt3@O-|eĆWUBJI\`(MG;`4'=@ @ǹ⠲t+[ 3 M9?H8<5K'7np0@$!nw<$ GNC A]\' pUP[]):85x:U O ITZK2> ;41 PL]f:Tn?v`$A6D6J% iY&ˍxYHg|3s[M7XD[ݷNI , @nS^93A0zk5׺.v 9*[3К:gpHs@Kwmp ė7! ,x;` dihYvQ&0|]m| pH,Ef H,q0)P4zfk( F+8i 8mS8WYz`xzJ~ortFaL/pXA[gưq^#[K؇nWߩAfjmoJ׷nz/4575OǍ٢7:W,'~(֦4zS% 3b p`Ƀ.[Q 2#'! 0ai$ĬD8bfT(I0i%I41wA G"iߧ)²ȉ)SR׌VcfBR` "CzR/T}Ӿ! &'d*-XXrݞȏ$ER5 ch]H~(2'%dc>.K<jc 'ÍGs[h<״Z84]+/rhM{aU?nn@! FL1yRvNɰ6A@v/!5/#RX *` P֐ k֯Tbg].W#88he%׫"ǼHA$sdd0G8(I;-(#qӸI"MWL!R Q,eFKv8"[׻aU/w٧ekmx&Xa9%0\# h,+ !d6@( )Lg 0(MIjLX׆{k;(6>@b=a  8*,pn K@kn "Ʉ56꺉2?m^Kg?lO#P6,d)QI:OVQY2V%]QU4 0 W,@Zc1[U Š1," ČёŏB-Y:j0 gUY>QɄĻ-x{\=p?kz@g1u#Rg2v ]yW%c6>^vYx7̖G@p v [ C-# TK5D3/5W<,-`2`@Zs qjl6@kJx)\^\C.fo.! ,x<` dig^RZ,tm͝Pi^Rytzh@Zl2HXՃxL.;3KEnpmկ<~qotEFzGhn#p\v|VX_`z~UU]_,߮,؂wKif 5ms*yvN^sIe\x)or'c'gɝSvp<=^BigtUIO7d7S(mGwM4NaL 9dRGp 0@~]k42>M4%G]N0_v $ `f`qΰWK=Lp a`K}7  x<@ @W@ߔ4Ȕ#QeSN2%(i#%Me p (@jģnaپ!}ӞS&vTJVM: ,zw]9 #MXuNz@>z)[i_OZ*tk 6ByI. /Z㪂dRKj'BԺk1s/:kNaʫ7j*@Rʐ%t%LzLjkޭ"FGGZ`d#f+2ʭK OtA(ve82=Pq\ _iJ4 o2fY22$s)6n`U1PѤnT õ,4MZ顟$0@DqS|@ J1Ai"= D k"RA+a[C^ 9ܦiNJe-H5 $3(SO):HLx⴨OG `BbߜiR?rzg*#UP WjT-P jWԆFZC 6:4Q9tߡ+*jJY J8뻃2k+7" jW4̶Fב*@ q:eE +UZ穊YSG udz -Y16QG3=6||ZfˁqǂmEVbjg |Ehm~Y@aaejPAv pȤ ppVČ%a6A{-ġN{nY#n?A>'^K$~G8ՠ[.;l8'_\9<twb.1(>Cz>ދW FҟQ~epA9,bfdTϖ]I|*5WXW uOuRG6xX]'3dE<`P#)ʣV1;P ha|Vh^j)]<3S}GI70ByY6('&]Ecr]z8;u܊d0Iq{ Ms9%}Q"BVZpQ]HpǏhh7愧嬖aYiRw^YYV2[Q=:gBBޱ.%jRQd;y.؅:.Ha-'Z f|b 807싒BX瘎%qH|Ӵ4z{*ke@:*.'n}~@+c{_%\*g~@Jn$lQ=@@^$|b?M-BnL7LYsaDmvxX-@mv ^䌀h\4vm@ұvm d@%DOՕ$pse~[|&my#haz+yIvl~n-M3G2;<6ҸuAwY+oٌFzblsUzz`D'c  Fm ţ"z8 HBukjz\uo*WCp! ,x<`&dYhlpt\9o,&h쩨Z34`+K&Df; 5s-|}dTbxPzWwIS~HU]jtxsݨRnMkXOaV$ʔƣ`̜1QKLS=#m!-FG,~{Ha,HɝiiQ6D"@2aefY f2Ifu0c)B%JkJYr*VPȕ4+o0iafVDupEr跱 [*,X7 "h ,.3751^=6]񉎭1q(m= 7:R|mV,4l ;&oȼU*f{jwei>&3G- ~f`;5MKM79I)FkttzИW^Xk1`x~i sfcc$Jçj2%Cq1S} hEiaz6)ac.$HcB硟 xdafW6bXbN|ycA-#D1zifdI\31Ldf(-z3R)?xzv*[r܍f:Kq ڈ6rը R't ,{;+ :2 bNE&2;2PF؊mT>kƺK;DIؾǓo&hرn+ e èn<pt}6oӻT[.wϒpiim H-( /Êl1w{ _ڣ0(ه=<08s(/}+G-T_ A;En`[2su:΂WCcaBIЌ.v#kui3X)#P3;dٳ5I4oNЯ|E9ͫ5 ա Zpg[IzcDq~;켼zNr(HưL__7. K<{р?}{[D3Pd_4>(d @ul3_srO1sW3LMw &p0#mEȓLz2+`l%Gw#8݈߱%5Wt.e#;"l8%6Q+v`”jR|( J.)F1R6<1JkR?u0XpF2`HHrLl2݊Nn+ ٿIMR$W$24*9Ċ\r H)JPLe$g9!,x<ܒHH GLז c(3 Eޥ]׏ F}5~.}4Hxdx8h 8Si%֊I**HZZx䮆Dj{+ \0[lLϓ3K2̺m1N^n~ƑP;postcXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXcate 4cR2GFzntry(Yp81__pPJBurl @http://www.slowfood.com/graf_sito/graf_sloweb/pixel_marrone.gifbsrlhttp://www.slowfood.com/eng/sf_sloweb/sf_arch_sloweek.lasso?-database=sf_sloweb&-layout=tutti&-response=sf_sloweb_dettaglio.lasso&-recordID=34990&-searchmime image/gifhvrsdataGIF89ay!,@D;post1__XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXcate Y1__m2+ntry(IH\Onp:nruzVݺD url Dhttp://www.slowfood.com/graf_sito/graf_sloweb/lumaca_editoriali.gifbsrlhttp://www.slowfood.com/eng/sf_sloweb/sf_arch_sloweek.lasso?-database=sf_sloweb&-layout=tutti&-response=sf_sloweb_dettaglio.lasso&-recordID=34990&-searchmime image/gifhvrsdataGIF89aׁdtÀAUڔTfv֘Ό找\ml|I\뤾|EY_pOapԕӤ!,@ & FFlbjE0P`R4p a  Ź pd.0P@ s-X8d`` ,E< e  Xj'4N6D q QAq.mXq9<3]=qn tbGu 0 cN]sg "XX.   d!;postXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXcate IH\m2Nntry(4nZn7˿6T+Aӿ$lurl 9http://www.slowfood.com/graf_sito/graf_sloweb/spacer.gifbsrlhttp://www.slowfood.com/eng/sf_sloweb/sf_arch_sloweek.lasso?-database=sf_sloweb&-layout=tutti&-response=sf_sloweb_dettaglio.lasso&-recordID=34990&-searchmime image/gifhvrsdataGIF89aĝ!,D;L;post˿6TXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXcate 4n˿6T"m21ntry(cU+⦯7j5) $ᅠBZurl Hhttp://www.slowfood.com/img_sito/sloweb/sloweek/sl_03_SW_00852/pere.jpgbsrlhttp://www.slowfood.com/eng/sf_sloweb/sf_arch_sloweek.lasso?-database=sf_sloweb&-layout=tutti&-response=sf_sloweb_dettaglio.lasso&-recordID=34990&-searchmime image/jpeghvrsdataJFIFddDuckyFAdobed     !1AQ"a2qB#Rb3rS4C$TsUcD5V&!1A"Qaq2BR3#$ ?b_.,`mo\8ES9ɨ:{ve2*9.OK$J>t8##- B@NХ1\70cܺD?kw*m<ĕK*tjf؊"~!Ҍ-11`n+|1*n?AZy97)(=<n-mmյ&WKxp:2X37&ʪ/&2OHP)Pڭomy3r-ykq Ym3\ $*>zWleߣHc?=i%UJ^^jS|؀q_#q^̨kX{!e X5i\\HSm/6D%63d;ЫkϺf1уAg %$(Z;k;q/O"!rl̾[QEfR}<\ltAYF$|O}[JncV/|Y ZgAtdAnY 6>C6еe J/G5uƠxIۛSkNÙ)F&8 @=-Vq7o{R {4}5~Dk&#zI%pа—g?OKX۾ꤠ@א|'\4F=J!5+#,'cm$3mĚtȝ؅8A8׃ř$Q̯RT:'e.0XQa>?u4#`sg-e)_=;i=IP,}'G-_:rO-ěew[EHp4<]—%yqa K؋_g*9zȒuPi[ ;›#;s />Y*}'aRԭ"cwq-N1!7 (}>B ,kZu5{?4>ӑ -mq&Kw&2B3v JM=R]w m]PkD6b":2zlZ*'tc%oр.鑉ѼnZX1xPr:F/5X:u̯Yu̞e|$g$H@a Nz痫fZw|ɛ{9]EgkJ4m$ OI*xO?+Pfb~ww`_w\|L rQ1[|?OrlKnONjwOfb.;["<|"$mBAH|K꾂 ꛕeNy5Qn[a5DFHFq,vA:NpP7Ҷ鴆pr5۪+fWY}.9/(̻9^ s-oܽ,]FvGǥx:EKYdBCr*yxr|@\5[Y-Q0\ꬅ@3uR)EОawv|j=Wx320 0M4ua~aY0Y),wUb%1vM9>}1%̡C)q2+u[n %9e9TAB}4+wYRd2u癹܃r$hl tO2Ѱݧ{u$fzèǨ-|'.יVIY <\`/zYOyo5?% 2nV r=KFjP"ޠ%&廑5+C7cR~} $eZOVNU=Ṷv=dql^{ixP-}[h>sƆ]rE鱾÷Ԃ^ZHh5 uk[qd;MoºKa"KPJ*!PkMp5ۅv-JcoXeb ;I`]In& $ QTGԭFWeyƐ2`ƫEL'):u-zv4, 1Qo,롌7SkٝU,~vTycj3UUU iS٥kD).b YY.-ևmA zA^zլe)deqykV2LwT6*"w`}r5⎈/+0{nALXFK@C.iFG}L_'ۚ4{qދ?>\E!m3f$[khB B1!уv_j]Cqb ?vY0Wt\ZnR?QR鶰wWZdYLw5^1tnh',#M"iCCNJHW ٱdC?cPf~r`4@֧͛`''yko}usgg ͧ1V ߚv-U=Ι}T׽ٽ,i{hX ^'ߡW%vW~Z__/lطe&UWޮ)/M]섪ۤ,WXϏ:lfZC\lҊ,$J _(=6Qy +C;*UXY/ܼ^JD6!}mk{ж>ncӍdK{;!y1qF P*P:6ܱ'tcd󱣍l{r9Xԯy,?*"ə5$nҘvMd{@}.w+-`$ZY)1O6ؽ,{|WuBzrioi$cޛw 5֒Ɖ_q)qƤ?@6m~A6O),MxF?IZٛ G]%\_uf)8Ю(mPxǰh8]Զ->{#hkȓRd=OictS V㮔#H$bM] My]C ,i|tYi?ЖO5<5tkp.~vѤ4q޳wZ4wf@><1ڦp?X^۪QV_y"b$*SS=75oYWɜF_^E{ͳk XVU-_ 5O!S)ynvǖ ZEZ 뷖Xv"]䈎@f2r~h.vP9AdXNk>\^+ m 6UN@Jm>-/# yxBO4v*\xj!Pgi?/gٝn"چ="d99!+2X )^nodXbjVID'O7B=ӯh~:-=[ vܨ WLf',{qCI<>52 (C `z\{%0aļHә @@j0dv7Eooܽ6="(4_>45ۚtЛ~v=yEZ7>z!—Ri}ϜA!%ÓdyUi{x4Uhz\5>6w-e8_|֨ V@!'urƢR$$&9 LȏfiBPh[+OW9v./0ȁ7DGdmZM|炨v7O) nuU__'IrkFFDeo5b0jnos2ѥw"hLnS6wO#:l uz7?"kɤ(`cgfqAw@*<(վ+RQ̊nZs2{H!Zt)(wWjH}N9IϷ.#阣DI"bH㈯)ڭvT1/geۖVۥb@WrE|zz}ΤUhIf1@3;G"iҲ[)i]O#^=;e,162S (X[\ިAptw#P4 gZQr-eFҹ$I0 P- <̈́eOϯ`ShTT*Ү*%,qnD`BO\'#VݵBT/S@QL7,6IvcQ~@ B}ZuFмg01!AM8(W? g]nlG5cdB|iJ3~{댫]D84n7/ GOyZ[ai&5 J~j3SC6&>+ʞWķJS_@^N̼Ec[z]qmѭ܎)n@xAqpk}-z-GFG'L=cJnax>zyEM?{WN It߀-=Z@d3.,tI$ q:0-%i$P*P M_L) Kŀ?n'VeЈ'^HAJPxYc*u"ZySQi^9®mgf> \XwOY]g<6^=FvB++!b5;'=_ jZK=ta;Q!TйEDkVS%7)TETt%I]_ b݀D2m9ne7EovNфiXla槇)@~<)^:m0CzhbZ +MtXgPɩj9E[B*HdZ1EB쎔^[EYhUM*7)<6VAK-`]IrTyF7JJT! hEJ ocb,Wmt%Pv2tZ^0{p;^ϖӒ+ mGG!M ҝ u~BOSjKlds9eU~ӷQ䮀>{so{ܾ6R+{JVkx8HTJ4]J~#1ijR=j:xXcUv⥊/E ;@$xpҳ5,G)?m3V72d=7uNgh@=r< sϜjJtimMK~Z!1E+(RX h+"zqBU`XOIT|)Rk+:\Ei7 # uvE"^rG9^/-5)']jNgq}\iQÂwCQIk V?j ̟ze$vV]OᤨU ue"w=г\0K*k]rj'J,Tb$ qZ~'M$0CY1I:I ;ryvJcI;?&~DDYE|"vgE.nr=V7$-AZ~%4؊:8rc!;_Ezx,WoD)"=yڲH6J([;0Yw  u:$sFw#&͸4W+oK\LXvs| i޶HvxWYt pbb,2HT |C~-צV^mZߤf.=Y[^ 'оވ4E3pVvEu+)t"PT3=>:!\I2}BSTA\3֌dVKе{r\K5óL#YSADR[o0a[2[%#"|;WTn5ZqrFߺ[˃ RCHPxSyb|颟:U `uFtm#^#u˔6~Z{mFToT)BwjRq襤/~B) ͇"D$6{56WlK/m{ i%z{Qwr:-S W7=m W, CPM?7ȴ1nX᫩WFɱzuXu$656 CV,y~swoGVQYop;ׅO4<4 sfڬ0ev)$qxhGP1ٝ_.7;"PdcwsOM'q#f4d=ǐY剖lakmk Q#gLB*>%>gnG^AKmwg2 ucMG?Mw6YC뀥S{y nRM`7BiOf*u_{%IlC9i_4m kdӋ1Ft\BR9x^r~Ӳ-¢՟1wV)$U2`YZbӾ`f@ܭyMDTg< ¸'FNJyg4iʹ9ixϸ3> b6UlΩN/)9/{9s8b`S*Af&r&_XNQss{ 6{[)'MY`Up ĭj1x.x^1!a̪L^)wIc&zU+HdE `Sm,$ciiЗ;XGk5Ji,hk^~ff㩌BkyU9JtV=U8 Gx\x$i[rΎy=揔kCҰ5~ȓdC nbewY(w'x0X=Ǹ|Ob3RN$*F}mc4|vѫaIVI4G^S΁48m_;[t炋c#2zݞ.boC媚ߛD,=Sq Qif .h@ Hq8I- w՟v[IP*6xi=< #Kk0⸵w稟M@?ؒ%'-N˽Ʉn܎xeV 4&GY< k_qkO0Ԍ?%"FR-XiYyD O*p!o6w&&ُDITejO>qrxc?UT8S\ shcgXfIuRAFGƄ(9lIZ=6%U z^C@jܝY7)?.KEM{"Ղ;+YZX?MCs$?+nɖ  JWpDxyqXzF0]b #϶vaۋ\ZZ 5 :Ǡǔ/T GqǎvJIg$3#Ъ xd^%QPhV]DӪv037W >҆$-C ,{@qbs 7t$[UH"(LD/ nDg.v+ `Y-o>+ܬ?Zv[ޫWc $NQBKtQJ2Љr.73^DT#utgdv%G{p% f@JI䄐=ćcJqcI O9`\paqT%( J:,u&lSc'1 cNB8ͥR+ ;Nk--&xR$T|Txkn%=LN3<ܩbhxs ݐȔ@׳7`>S1o{*5Gv5G5ޭCgqV`.[ﶒڌ| N1 vpKƫ#UUdٸqœoqC+,jXİ CSyPw VyUWf4G=SgM:E"xm[Ls^פX8{-Qebm ஠ePm`AU>5^XX3lz=dG-aڌ"He,BGUDhԕ^:u3lr l]ul䉄+sn/̡fa#Kc{uGXQfD:;M $}IKQ8i{x叞c#?pM3ZV0!|yi+b_ oŠX7Un7`>S=f6{AnX/|Ja䞿߆*DvZڹDm6뻾s,뤟KTSo>-MyC>"wmX: џYvl >Djp::7lkAїN[Ϊ+'w&Ӎ)1vIE8fb[[ޔ^@%]ͻʩi[(v5k9H]$\{{Q8׈I_|Be5步[ehХE==)Ɓ+BEɥaQ&k-Dj Ru;,U{dKUI<^'ɦJF+2^ﵔO,އ7ZvHa:HoI44 a#Z2Э%= E|+Ue$b]1CH<ы<~,_RP9}7v-SRVY-bKbK7.ј &lw i#)% JUk3' SV HDֹS,Ӻș["R$}kSZ 1yVetcU${*jܱܘxLfS[M,l&X7è~evqR}As|ֹM5Ywc3$v9Iyhk%XYY"gD8m P_=Ls^1y#g:2In!䍅IoWG@k3g{_췀|=m~., >)AGO98q+n"mh(xCXw\B6xEts,b[=$Ir (!`TX|ҹY1/X;Zp ZSy6V{# QC$u=i OSZ.ɨGs,n{ʅ ]5++VZY-LT,=Xꠦ*G.<4+sH4hn*2r٪qۚ5EJW$Ǚ(޲3 ^@qxZm]Ŗnκ_nw-HLu4spҤ inGlvګ:t(Rk8=F!!(W@7}DAÝr٧ԭD¥w%;#B}LB|B~)e{^y|yB]I$QJE>#M9=CYSH):#3^:aQJlpG? "˛sw+uiB:0n(g{u5CU?|t]z ÏG}uiڅc61℈~`=Q;3N%ʥenII6 ?&t!O=wnrOoqxϜyYw676NFZqr)g"US躦)S UaD~O ol. ǽgC+׭pd}iIMJo-2riZ:<k +j\U6vPҳ.ozO5uwrM).dhr;F5 4JɛJ)Ju'l}I^T ɠ`-3n!Ѿ!ms]OAbqjDiR%+KӦB@W>lsP.GG=Kk*CoJd }F^okm"\)R(֘yx hG-Dޭw[)^u2n_u}rKooi,y` n/!m=Dl}N/uPWUg-+ΝaTtX]d?wU+ QvWڟ krf ~Gg o4 2ŸIO{ỂA|kOF5I^u|nqɛQo1V}a/Va[Wx#~&A酘6K vkPd"Au$Iu A,*$/<(4Xb E|@Ԗe=cT9j>2XT3i]PI}!fcȇs" aO՞?_'?М_z+ [ FPM|vⷊIiGk4io[J-mEvkc`CiY o*eGJ•RLkH) 1ۭd^s%_cSף _M'Rq#'=RGfKk n:g*w (omʟ+j'+0Mʴ" Z -U B (Ϭ> LVldмu $rL_ |x>76Y:eB |>x,[*3oIfu*E 5F(Ѓ^< c g^RTQ%"ExzŞY}+iKC-x<Щƾm1P)E!ݒhxTlцWL4q(]PطSTM£`c#+J[w:Иz|9=.VYK X$F|jU_́~pn-Y^HƷu=wU! ^:\W"g 'Ėqh߮9v?D% .ؙ,W(*!Dތ*->|8V.m X<0VŋUi7UYSZY5,ׯ\waʏ,G$W*x/e\n6[ofVj"{FHnOM kkNy%f,Gj[]kDqyu0؁3VCCu|4xU#>+I½VĮ,#K,M)G܎*-#M3WggXBkvSD!]y-Xsy+b{3X+VòyZ%dJ4hRFR'w~pKu\ZC$Q kr"!bZV2 q?휙n?߸gn9(>lJC6cDPpaKM` 01ҤDY^8ԕ~_d3R4YlNuShkwE).-ahjo,L8:ڝwB.7\F V TB<-2UrZ\F)Z7\o.o?=ʟ!9+O b/z7?Z&D FgcEt'Ut)9*:Mo<Ji$ֻA>iFo{V2(AtȆ6 hGT|yҗ{/" :b/B94\)8@~jdyƎ , 9RMuqq?%ՁӰ;Lzc?j^\PM8Q!gSAeKǫGpgڏ9%%Fm4H fUHGZy O5p{n?-~n? j43K4#$8>g_g;eޙ]342$A]4bw/gz)t/d)&~e}]WrH+@M7yP 5Q M1jޞ&u6#!5ڴcӋzRX eU5Gԭy\}Cґ5‚/䆠^n%e+O@=EA\i?1-:TZY1.zDj277f'3StD-v5եB2ţ#`Gt&Zo$ki'cVH 괻+r5}EesOw$HͺW}yѵH-nY-^S,%x2+>M)8sg-ޠ>]$o/#HHk4&[%Z߅jw v*;^ϗJKfC# Y}{""}_Xg+Z*)?& )u1xv͵){@9Oq3əN{6aX-_r4Ey*/ʗJZz?B'vNлu{@ ,=CS5UQhE_ɼ,r?oqd;%$oW̋#Rͪ} pɸg/tm*30#j2O9(RfIba$[n#,V)*O&%Imo @w 1*Fk^'2IcV? ^/h9wR4* m:+2'\B 4R<9`}e$72ب|RX,̚փ7sڬ DP O خXFoV,(n;#O$?:X|Em@"m k rVzVK9rZi~L9as 2 Zu(gJwmx|h5%j^-zD;:rQw K\to%ֻнz<֔cD 6oKxjxN;d^^h.# # R9g D ^\Me0ӳ[$7"ִREsh-s7m Y!uvߛS^# nxP ,`i,-0F]Z%*mJҙq>`0$:XBm$+I}5W9,Vt1Ff,?TZY|m$DŽ'rMx 1MDq]Pm9ȅ)tE%,"z[z~C}7 446wMSZxxjAiD%}s b*T[ ^w,xOPƬ~ȁڍ슿ziujn Fb8jLi%HAE`%hyTM͵)ɵd/ei&zCmVq#LFfׅ[Ե A[VLy#R~ F>^¸?#񒲪@5aƣ6\}*k-؂N.SV>p1VScgs6ugҤ*gxk 4]:G;\^%ٳ]LIv,Iخ?kUZ`&iDC5 \r#mٰ\#ڮ<.,@ՙf׶9.P G]'pyNva>K ]4jHxiȎ45G'ڈ$1 eQDrx8H?n6$yl꠻~)mbM:1~Dm*ʁ+9h2=#G Nk p>ggkBIpޜP%Bݙu7]=>iu JELU[oȢ O t2p3Kpm\)cpIfªXmB31ֳ/@L3B6r 9k5]O^;^N7~ǒmqYZK5.Ҁ<͖^ÉK/n6y 6;_B&Ko7J#5?ZP ^Xl M߷ߍ9p,~eo'ҜZv ddMYz`S}o'1x\:V: KRR{q컐NU)"?\qOᤢ0Ę a=y o0߯@rCս S`U;$3̕H,pUJdGu4'Gȳ[9⪣n1~ 6M25>16>y\e.JYT[<*ZYCRbӲVgiㅥ5^ 72/V.'bۛ.k3<Ր^MWd1"" Eu(WƏi[Pd4-)-AS8pTITQVdxJ– m͏si @EYU@P :[ۤDF{{ 9;`EVGI~O%G̼- QI# quNTWVP>B+tNɥn]I>:bI /mD-JȻpe1iM,0 n^mAt1Q|Fr)_sb-lVmK|HNA+&C$^,ؔ{,iB6>*<9+;VJdKw{_Յpe3¨Ko.es-m;d6l!]rlrd/X{K%( x]`4-Y`ṳ̈̄,t&ru_V8uapn[%ƖٞW$.~?Jۛ'8 b@Yl^bJ|jKSrm暪`ZG<ݡ'[*A?y|tQ N|i28rF m~Y"'7 sް3\]K(氨]mb҅{Jz.(p&Uo#&X-7_Qss5xû1O] u$y.6b" Z$iK{iŪWekh4RAWĥtH kO Ǧ[{e,0]J뫹P() |)ٸ~_w?pfs-R1{s}Ԕn.gRF`cЁQw(vq~'Кµ{~ޱ%q)$FR=$jp`zsR-QLuEHJA'hEi£r1$AťKpo.D_ "b]㕕t]: _B롋}FNGK<7X'DoITl/ѕ\q}$jHvbmn1Jh $ǴNe&9Gp6]@+"H nu =1f8' Ȍ'K8Β:5ݲ-*olqG΄G{%P(XExn€\R[S(쑀{2){oL+y־Ie$6*]onȹcNUAԀ ͏B\qzes5oK52X]4!$Yي COxk T "t 56aዔ7›nzy#post7XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXcate ⦯7$:q2ZY,ntry( }*@"2 [FM<url =http://www.slowfood.com/graf_sito/graf_sloweb/pixel_nero.gifbsrlhttp://www.slowfood.com/eng/sf_sloweb/sf_arch_sloweek.lasso?-database=sf_sloweb&-layout=tutti&-response=sf_sloweb_dettaglio.lasso&-recordID=34990&-searchmime image/gifhvrsdataGIF89a!,D;post2XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXcate 2cm2+ntry(y(h4+Ӫރ9=l \;|url +http://www.slowfood.com/graf_sito/back.gifbsrlhttp://www.slowfood.com/eng/sf_sloweb/sf_arch_sloweek.lasso?-database=sf_sloweb&-layout=tutti&-response=sf_sloweb_dettaglio.lasso&-recordID=34990&-searchmime image/gifhvrsdataGIF89a31ޝޝޝޝޝޝޝޗԂԂԂԂԂԂԂԂkkkkkkkkccccccccckBkBkBkBkBkBkBkBZ1Z1Z1Z1Z1Z1Z1Z1J!J!J!J!J!J!J!J!BBBBBBBB999999999999999911111111sssssssssssssssssssssssscccccccccccccccccccccccccccRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBB111111111111111111111111111!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!KSOFTWARE: QuickTime 6.0 DATE: 2002:09:02 15:02:07 HOST: Mac OS X 10.1.5 ,3Hݡ*\#JH3j|A:dIs{N1R 'w% ,)PF E9r?42IKgMʜMY(H?} lؤ?U,VybCi-$'i{:5U?K JX eT;wȦ#Շ~Xsuneb|K2R hRAW}y؊n)KN]eL?*_K;post=XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXcate y(h=`2Zcat ݼL *2NMt-")0Ozm2]˽ SqaCG2kj,($Nd>ی2#;V\ռm2 4cR2GFzY1__m2+IH\m2N4n˿6T"m21⦯7$:q2ZY,2cm2+y(h=`2Zaux SURLhttp://www.slowfood.com/eng/sf_sloweb/sf_arch_sloweek.lasso?-database=sf_sloweb&-layout=tutti&-response=sf_sloweb_dettaglio.lasso&-recordID=34990&-search